Tivoli and Religion

We went to Tivoli last week. Tivoli has been home to the lavish summer estates of emperors of Rome for a long time, including the villa of the Emperor Hadrian. We didn't get a chance to see Villa Adrian but we did strolled in the gardens of Villa d'Este, built by Cardinal Ippolito in the 16th century. He's apparently honored in the town for redirecting the river, saving the old city from floods.


The gardens were magnificent! There are over 150 fountains and various kinds of statues and plants. Interestingly, there are grottos and sanctuaries for both Christian saints and traditional Roman deities. And all was built on a hill (As Clara learned, the hill was fun to descend but a pain to hike up).





I also went to the church of Santa Cecilia last week. It's one of the oldest churches in what used to be the working class area of Rome, called Trastevere. Among other pieces of art (including marble from both Egypt and Turkey), the church has a spectacular 9th century mosaic, depicting Jesus with the same kind of light that ancient Egyptians bestowed upon holy figures, an Orthodox sign of blessing, and God as a hand (an unknown). I learned that it was only in the 15th century that European Christians felt bold enough to put a face to God--they previously adhered to Jewish (and Muslim) practices of expressing God as an unknowable force.

I also learned that basilicas all have the same shape -- a rectangle with something circular at the front. The rectangle, where there are pews for people, is imperfect, like people, because it must be made from 4 different elements. Also, there was a belief that people were made from the four elements of fire, water, air, and earth. So, the people sit in the rectangle. The circular element at the top is where the mystery of God is represented. And circles, like God, are perfect. Cool, huh?

Daily struggle

Most of this blog shares our outings in and around Rome. I guess I have found a need to show the good things, our enjoyable moments. Truth be told, it's usually quite a chore to live here. As a foreigner and limited Italian speaker, I just don't know or have access to many of the charms of life here. I can't figure out how they make the artichokes taste so good; I can't negotiate a better price for fresh kiwis (or for repair of my gate); I don't know good places to buy shoes or how to play Italian cards; I don't know the difference between tripe cooked in Florence to that of Rome (I also don't like tripe)... I could go on.

I guess the fact of the matter is that much of Italy (Rome, in particular) is closed to me. I don't know many Italians, although my children go to a school that is more than 50% Italian and their classes have even a higher percentage. The few that I have me are busy with and keep to their families. They don't simply invite folks like us home for lunch. It must take years to really penetrate their rich, family-filled worlds. This is different for me, who has lived in other places 'round the world and shared many a meal with "locals."

So, I live like a pseudo-tourist. It's pseudo because as I site-see, I still must come home to negotiate with the man who fills our gas tank; I must listen to the indignant non-apologies of service people who fail to show up on time (or at all); I must interact with the caribinieri who stop me randomly as I drive down my street; I must try to convince the horseriding teacher that shouting, "You know how to ride a horse," doesn't encourage; I must cutoff other cars and gesture if I want to get anywhere... Strange existence.

I also don't have a strong expatriate community to help. We are scattered. Many of the women I do know have lived here for many years and repeat, like a mantra, "It's so much better than it used to be. You're lucky." They've been through the fire (inferno, maybe) and can't imagine why I feel lonely or legless in 2007. Well, I don't know what they've experienced, but a little help and extension of friendship never hurts, no matter how trivial it feels to the giver.

sigh.

Cerveteri

The children and I visited the necropolis at Cerveteri on their day home last Friday. The huge, Etruscan tombs were made of tufa (a volcanic rock from which our home also is made). They were surprisingly inspiring. Similar to Egyptians, Etruscans built the tombs to prepare for life-after-death and often resembled very clean homes--they included chairs, vases and art. In Etruscan Places, DH Lawrence wrote of his visit:

“We went down the few steps, and into the chambers of rock within the tumulus. There is nothing left, it is like a house that has been swept clean, and the inmates have left. Now it waits for the next comer. But whoever it is that has departed, they have left a pleasant feeling behind them, warm to the heart. The tombs seem so easy and friendly, cut out of rock underground. One does not feel oppressed descending into them. There is a simplicity combined with a naturalness and spontaneity. Death to the Etruscans was a pleasant continuance of life with jewels and wine and flutes playing for the dance.”

The children were most fascinated with the florescent yellow water that flooded a number of the tombs. We never figured out what kind of chemical caused that or what it's for...

Etruscans were remarkable. They built sewage systems, arches and roads and, later, taught the Romans. Romans refined and spread many of these technologies all over Europe, North Africa, and the Byzantine world as their empire increased.

Settemana Bianca

Settemana Bianca, is White Week or ski week for us Romans. Instead of skiing, we enjoyed Rome a little and watched a lot of tv!

In between Disney programs, we went on a brief tour of the inside the Colosseum for the first time. The stories of fighting gladiators and animals was intriguing. Our guide likened the ancient fights to the death to our current fascination with violent entertainment.

We went to Ostia Antica to tour the ruins of a former port. It was really cool to see 2000 year old mosaic floors, statues, and paintings. After an initial glimpse at some old rocks, the kids enjoyed playing tag in the necropolis (tombs).

We also went to a nearby beach, which was filthy. Despite the trash, we had fun walking with Gaia along the water’s edge, collecting shells, and playing soccer among the rubbish.

At the end of the week, we celebrated mass at Santa Susanna Church instead of at our usual Marymount chapel. The church has a long history in Rome. It is located on the same spot as Susanna’s house, which served as a secret center for Christian worship as early at 280AD. The church also is home to the bones of 5 saints. It is full of elaborate paintings of bible stories and saints.


We also saw the remains of the Baths of Diocletian (huge complex!) and admired some of the many fountains in Rome, including the fountain of the playful nymphs at Piazza Della Republica.